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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 26, 1919)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, JANUARY 26. 1919 A Mew FinisfiWash t uttoia-oinis' Text by Caroline Harper ihor tMeiiwali Designs by Ejj. Buckman Styles by Jeannette Hope v Text by Adelaide Byrd WARDROBES. even the best eared for of them, begin to look Just a wee bit scrubby about thl time, don't they? Logically, then, you are considering 'some new additions In the way of frocks, and you find It much more diffi cult to plan for the time between sea eons. If that la your problem, then may be the artist and I can help you out. In the first place, I certainly would not advise any unchangeable extremes, for the spring fever for new duds Is not far off. you know. Rather would I suggest a frock of almost severe sim plicity and then some removable trim mings, the kind that at once dress up and change- the line. And that Is where the clever 'Idea of the wash button-on comes In. Look into the smart matter of the trio that goes: vest, panel, vest. In each Instance the foundation Is the very easiest and most effective kind of dress to make. Serge, satin or taffeta are modish . and serviceable. Tressed up tn crisp organdie they are doubly serviceable and startlingly good to look at besides. For ths pointed panel vest, a perfect ly straight length, slightly curved at Crisp Organdie Additions the sides in some semblance of an hole, perfeotly straight in back and finished off into a point in front is the plan. Cut the neck line quite gener ously round and have the opening on one shoulder. There are deep pointed complementary cuffs of organdie and an effective hem treatment of the same. The dress is provided with light bone buttons and the organdie additions with buttonholes. Really. I can't imagine anything more tastefully pretty than taffeta and or gandie after the plan of the frock in the middle. Really, it s wonderful what the right bit of contrast can do to a somberly simple dress. Here the con trast Is "the very easy matter of a wee turnover collar, long flaring cuffs and a perfectly straight front panel with string sash and pockets to suggest the A Novel Way BY THIS time one's winter clothes are verging on the shabby, es pecially If one has been limited to one or two frocks for service wear. This new idea of using washable trim mings la the very thing for freshening up the frock of serge, jersey, velour or satin. The three figures shown here with give some excellent suggestions for adding to the plain underdress. Take that pocket and bretelle com bination, for example. It's a very sim ple matter of patch pockets buttoned on to the skirt with large pearl but tons, bretelles that go over the shoul der and button there, and cuffs that flare and button to the long tight sleeve. The belt Is also of wash material, or gandie in this instance. Handkerchief linen, embroidered, falls In two kerchief points at the back of a plain frock and is confined with a narrow belt of self -material. The front of this has . two surplloed ends which cross at the waist line. In fact. It looks as U a huge square of embroid ered linen were folded diagonally, and crossed in front like PriscUla's ker chief. Pique for collar, cuffs and wide belt makes the attraction in the last figure if this group. Can't you see what this button aet would do to serge or even I velveteen? Why, one could have all ' three sets for one dress. It is just & matter of enlarging the usual collar and cuff set to include such things as belts, pockets and shoulder straps. Really, there Is no Unit to the pos sibilities of these tub adjuncts. j It Is. only a very': little thing that makes a frock wonderfully becoming or hopeless ly unbecoming. And the well-dressed woman la the wise woman who knows the Importance of vthose J'little things" and just what ones are becoming to her. Usually it is a neck line, or. a - decided line around the waist or the smart turn of a cuff. Emphasize the strong point, make 'it of tub stuff, and It will always be fresh, h demureness of the apron. A sprinkle of hand embroidery adds much to the general effect How about that black satin that you just finished? Stm you don't feel a If It Is finished; it "needs" something. Well, try organdie after the manner of the surplice-vested dress sketched. Ton won't have difficulty cutting that vest. You might be thrifty and use a sur plice bodice pattern, omitting the sleeves and swerving the sides into points. The deep applied tuck explains itself. That buttons on, please note, and snaps, too, in between the buttons. A more elaborated Idea of applied tuck Is expressed in the unvested dress with the cunning frills on its remov able trimming.. That applied tuck, or flounce, if you will, might better be eut on the bias, then the charming dip at the back will be decidedly easier "to achieve. Here buttons alo$ie do the fastening. Take a perfectly plain navy serge frock, cape collar it, cuff it, sash it, and panel it with crisp white organdie after the manner of the neighboring model, and you have something that is always going to retain a certain satis fying freshness. Quite the only thing that you need to be told about here Is to the Plain Dark Frock the cuffs. They begin on a snug band, and gathered thereto is a double un crossed fold that gives a delightful piMed effect, over the arm. Nor Is there any partioular reason why all the wash button-ons should be white. Following the charming ex ample set by the latest in neckwear, they might just as charmingly be in pink or old blue or even a bright red where good taste1 will permit. Tou know the stunning effect of a little bit of red against navy blue and the at tractiveness of old blue with black. New red organdie on navy taffeta is a mighty happy idea for treating that demure thing in the middle of the trio. Really it's quite wonderful the touching up and freshening that you can do to a dress with the simple aid of these tub able; button-ons. to Freshen Up the Adjuncts of Tub Material Interest Centers in These WHAT IS NEW IN DRESS AND ACCESSORIES POLLY DEAR. If you want to experience all the tweet torture of a perfectly legitimate temptation, take yourself to a matinee one of these days and con oentrate on the hats you see there, i After that go to Mimi'a salon and con centrate some more. ' By that time hub by's bank account is in Imminent peril. But I know you want me to give all the harrowing details of the temptations, don't you? To generalize a bit, tho, I see more of satin than anything else in the fas cinating headgear of this mid-season time, and a very, very great deal of black. Of course,, there are other stuffs taffeta, for Instance and other colors, an interesting green called almond, a warm tan and then some carnation ; still they only prove the black satin rule. As for trimmings, there are the rub ber fruit and flowers that I mentioned to you last week, jet fringe, much em broidery and more handmade flower trimmings, and a great deal of the time, no trimming at all. The untrim med ' hat Is a gracefully draped thing mostly, and invariaJaly a draped turban. But I just must tell you about the jet fringed one X saw. That was a draped turban, swirl after swirl after the East Indian fashion. There was not another thing on it, my dear, but the fringe. . That was made of jet bugles and buna, fully an Inch over the hair all the way round. Again the un trimmed hat may be seen voluminously veiled. Another turban, black satin, of course, but more la Russe this time, took unto itself a long Winter Frock on- Serge and Satia Removable Trimmings veil of henna colored Georgette laid la pleats at the back and after that drap ed about the neck of the wearer.: Shapes I should say are for the most part email, but there is a noticeable-, re turn of the picture hat In these confec tions of sarin, too. One awfully stun ning thing that I saw in Mimi's .salon swerved way off to one side, and splash ed against brim and crown of the "dqvn" aide were half a dozen or more cat tails, or pussy willows; au naturel, they .were,, and tremendously effective on the shiny black. They tell me that later on in the sea son we are going to see hats of raffia. One I have already had an advance glimpse of. Another of the ubiquitous turban shapes done in black raffia and embroidered in white raffia is, you don't know how fetching. Certainly the raf fia hat ought to "go" when warmer days come; it Is so airy-fairy light and so graceful. And now I think I have told you all the really valuable and interesting things there are to know about the between-seasons hats. I haven't quite finished with black satin., tho. For. you see, I haven't been spending all my week in the hat salons, no in deedy; I did dresses, too, and this is one big Item of Interest that I found. My dear, they are treating the slinky, vampy, hitherto undecorated dress of black satin to white fur balls, to white wool rosettes, to white wool flowers. The furry-balled gown that I saw had a very decided carnival atmosphere that was instantly compelling. And you can't imagine anything more striking than a slinky black satin frock decorated with flat, white woolly flowers. - "?d H'0.1!0 leave the entrancing subject of black satin, I just must elve you a hint on the suits for spring. You see a great many of the dressy kind are going to express themselves In this much-talked-about material. The coats 2t?st BUlta are Jacket more than anything else, straight, and mostly rrontless to make way for a. brilliant bit of vest. ,.K1 wiH have to make my adieus, tho. but I don't want to go without tell ing you the latest in footwear. Polly my own, they are going in for Grecian fSff- Roany. they look Just like the thing we used to wear in classic plays at school, except that the modern ized version has a heel. Narrow satin ribbons lace over the instep and the effect is wonderfully fetching over stockings of contrasting color. You like to hear about those 'little things," don t you? I have more for you next week. Au revoir, then, cherle. Your own, CAROLINE HARPER A Floor Screen MOSTLY every one Is familiar by this time with the little screen for the table lamp, to be low ered or raised so that the glare of the lamp is shaded from the eyes when it is not needed. Now comes a floor screen for the same purpose, larger and even more decorative. In fact, it may be part of the furniture attrac tions', in the large living room. A standard similar to the familiar floor lamp is provided with a framed oblong of tapestry, embroidered silk, etc., and clamped in back with a screw that will allow it to slide up and down on the pole. Here is a good chance to frame an old sampler or other valu able piece of work in the same man ner as you would for a tray, and get th home carpenter to fasten It to a standard made from a clothes tree. i When Beading WHEN placing bead work upon silk or other goods, instead of marking the design directly upon the material stamp it upon fine tissue paper of strong quality and then baste this on your silk In the position required for the design. Sew your beads on to the silk, following 'the lines of the design, and afterward cut away the tissue paper with a small pair of scissors. The result is exactly the same as If you were to work directly on the goods, with Infinitely less trou ble for yourself, ; The same plan may also be followed with braiding where the braid used i aet too - broad and HAVE you been neglecting your invalid friends In favor of the boys over there? Then It is time you gave your 'attention to the sufferers over here, now that the boys are gradually passing beyond the need of your knitting and bandage making. So here is a delightful set that will make any Invalid chirp up when she sees it. It includes a bed sack, cap to match. Smaller Sleeve Motif slippers, tray cloth and napkin. Un bleached muslin that has been wash ed soft might make the whole business. It is so effective for the pretty col ored embroidery one sees everywhere. Or you may prefer flannel for your ln- valid except for the tray cloth and nap kin, of course or linen. If you can get it. The sack has been designed so that narrow material can be used. The front and back panels are straight and go on over the head thru a square 1 Stitches Used in the Embroidery' neck opening. The side panels are rounded off for sleeves, and are fagot ted to the center panel.' Ribbons catch the side together to make sleeves, and there ls plenty of room without too much bulk. The cap is simply a shaped band into which a puffed crown Is shir red. Slippers are cut from on piece, How to Cut a pattern can be found In almost any style book. The soles can be the regu lar stiff slipper soles, and the sides merely whipped on to them, to be re moved easily for laundering, or the whole slipper can be made of the latin- : dered material and the cole Just slip ped Into it to stiffen, it. On corner 1 shown- vstajr tbe de- vvrvfei tt r- f bl - X ; ft" m I v Comer for Jacket, Tray Cloth and . s fS J Napkins lj eign. This will be used on the corners of the center panel of the sack, on the tray cloth and on the napkin. The larger motif runs across the front of the sack below the square nook line also on the sleeves. The smaller motif Single Stitches Make Quick Work goes on the rap and on the slippers, tho the larger motif would fit on the cap band' If one wanted a little more display. And now for the working of the design. The simplest Of Btltche are used thru out. Ail edges are treated to two rows i ,f of running stitches about a quarter of an inch long and alternating. Two colors should be used. The convention ally angled scrolls may merely be run 1 . along, as indicated, or a- row of 'smaller running stitches in a contrasting color may follow the real outlining. Tiny The Jacket the Pattern cross -stitcha fill In the centers of the sketchy flowers, and the rest of the work is a case of single stitches merely. - Be sure to use plenty of eolor and touches of black. . The set cannot be too gay for an invalid. Let me tell you the way X see it worked up, Tbe ma terial for the whole thing a lovely buff linen, sot toe- blight but very A' Cap to MatcH Embroidered Wash Slippers Made Up cheerful. : The running stitches tm the edges- are black and yiolet. The leaves of the design are green and the flow ers, blue and pink, the, scrolls are black and violet and the tiny scratchy marks among the flowers brown. Don't forget to make tbe fagottlng contrast, with col. ored cotton. If you use It. - Wouldn't Jhla tut ' fiMt mrit before any invalid you know? Economies HEN the stiff white collar be comes worn and frayed, to pro long Its usefulness several trips to the laundry, turn inside out. eut off the outside rim to one-half or one third its width, and by thus Inverting Its surfaces present a respectable new collar to the public. Often, overcasting . the rough edges will add to Its durabil ity. The improvised Inside half will :.ot stand the wear that its twin brother can put up with, but as It la the least worn portion of the collar, this treat ment will tide over its usefulness a couple of weeks longer," ' The crepe de chine handkerchief has been with ue for some tune now, and while not the most up-to-date offering that Dame Fashion has to present in 1U line, there are girls who find the crepe handkerchief sufficiently suited to their needs to carry thi suggesUon into affect. Take your old crepe ds chine waists of plain or colored mate rial, eut up Into pieces of handkerchief slse and hem or crochet a dainty edge. One waist ought to furnish at least three handkerchiefs, especially since the portions of tbe waist that first show signs of wear are not of the share available for the handkerchief -